Pupusas look like they could have been beamed down from outer space. The flying saucer-like delicacies aren't from Mars, but El Salvador. Some compare them to quesadillas, but they clearly stand in their own category. The process of pupusa-making is simple. They are crafted by forming corn dough into a ball, flattening it and then filling it with cheese, vegetables or meat. The pupusa is then flattened once again and placed on a sizzling grill to cook.
El Salvadoreo restaurant, in Barrio Logan (Logan Heights), is a place where people flock to gobble up the taco-sized treats. Oscar Vea has been a waiter there for 10 years. "People are in here all day long, we're always busy," Vea said. "Rebueltas are definitely the most popular ones."
Translated, rebuelta means a pupusa made with everything but the kitchen sink. El Salvadoreo fills them with beans, cheese, pork, zucchini and jalapeos. With so many ingredients, the subtle flavors become muddled. The pork and cheese and zucchini and cheese fillings do a good job of complementing each other and making the pupusa into a tasty package. When eating these, the mix of fresh white cheeses isn't overwhelming like with the rebuelta.
Whatever filling the pupusa has, it is meant to be topped with a mild tomato salsa and heaps of pickled cabbage coleslaw, though there is hotter salsa available. "We have to have the spicier salsa or the Mexicans wouldn't eat here," Vea said.
It's definitely picante enough to satisfy any hot-sauce lover. The salsa leaves one's mouth feeling warm, a feeling that is best quenched by a few sips of an ensalada de fruta.
From its name, the drink sounds like a glorified fruit cocktail, but it's more refreshing than any simple salad. It's a combination of pineapple, apple, pear and a Spanish fruit called marallon. One sip will send a jolt of sweet nectar flowing into your mouth and you'll be ready for the next warm bite of pupusa.
While pupusas are said to have been eaten for 3,000 years, they have only been served in San Diego for about 11 years. When Mara Reyes, owner of El Salvadoreo, immigrated to San Diego, she said that she was struck by the lack of pupusa restaurants here. The closest place to get them was Los Angeles, so she decided to open a restaurant that served them. Hard work and determination have made the place a success.
Pupusas aren't the only items on the menu. Tamales and typical El Salvadorian fare are also on hand. Many of them feature banana chips, meat pies or rice and beans. None of the items are more than $11 and pupusas cost only $1.75 ($2 for rebuelta).
El Salvadoreo Restaurant is located at:
2841 Imperial Ave. in San Diego, California
Hours: Friday through Saturday from 9 a.m. to 9 p.m.
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off the Plate
Latin American cuisine becomes
San Diego snack
By: Chaley Zachmeier, Senior Staff Writer
2/14/07
Media Credit: Chaley Zachmeier / Senior Staff Writer
An employee at El Salvadoreo, located in Logan Heights, reaches for ingredients to prepare pupusas. The corn dough of a pupusa is commonly stuffed with pork, beans, cheese and vegetables.
Pupusas originated in El Salvador more than 3,000 years ago but didn't come to San Diego until Maria Reyes founded El Salvadoreo. A popular item on the menu at the restaurant is the rebueltas
San Diego State University
Pupusas-The New Snack
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